The advantage of having an apartment equipped with a kitchen, stove, and oven on vacation is the possibility, for food lovers and chefs, to prepare a lunch, dinner, or even just an aperitif with some of the excellent local products. Here is a list of the best shops and markets in La Maddalena where you can buy local products, just like a true islander. We have not included supermarkets as they are easily identifiable. We also believe that supporting small local shops is useful for the local community and provides a more authentic experience.
This list does not claim to be exhaustive, but we will limit ourselves to indicating the places where we like to go and stock up on the delicacies that the island has to offer - from Vermentino to Cannonau, from Pecorino cheese to sausage, from carasau bread to cleverly prepared sea bream... there really is something for everyone's taste.
Where to buy the best Sardinian cheeses and cured meats in La Maddalena
Name of place: Bottega da Miro
What they sell: high-quality cured meats, cheeses, and groceries
Why go there: Ernesto, the owner, has a special supply of cured meats made with selected products for him by Maletti, one of the most important national producers
Special product: the mortadella (or mortazza) to be enjoyed strictly between two slices of focaccia by the sea after a nice swim. They also prepare sandwiches for excursions.
Location: in the center, near the church. You can find the map here
Name of place: La Casa del Formaggio
What they sell: cured meats, cheeses, and typical Sardinian products
Why go there: family-run shop that over the years has carefully selected suppliers to offer local customers and tourists the best dairy products on the island. They also have excellent oven-prepared dishes like zuppa cuata, ready to be heated at home (a typical dish of Northern Sardinia made with bread, sheep broth, and lots of Pecorino cheese).
Special product: the ovinefort, a sheep herb-flavored cheese, and calle de cabrettu, a Sardinian delicacy prepared by drying the stomach of a milk-fed kid. The natural rennet present in the animal's stomach creates a cheese cream with a very pungent, almost spicy flavor!
Location: in the historic center. You can find the map here.
Where to buy the best bread, pizza, and focaccia in La Maddalena
Name of place: Forno Benatti
What they sell: bread, pizza, focaccia, sandwiches, and meat, including porcetto (roast suckling pig) to take away on order
Why go there: very convenient to stop by the bakery before going to the nearby island of Caprera to pick up a nice lunch to enjoy by the sea or in the pine forest. They also have a nice outdoor area to enjoy a genuine aperitif or snack.
Special product: spighetta, a crispy myrtle-flavored breadstick. I don't think I've ever tasted it anywhere else, but it's really good and special, prepared by adding myrtle liqueur to the dough.
Location: on the road to Caprera. You can find the map here.
Name of place: La Focacceria Genovese
What they sell: Focaccia and pizza filled with Genovese-style bread (with lots of oil, soft and salty, or thin as a veil and filled with cheese)
Why go: Given the strong Genovese influence in the history of my family and the island of La Maddalena, it can almost be considered a local typical product.
Special product: Focaccia di Recco with stracchino, it's amazing!
Where to find: You can find the map here.
Where to buy the best fresh fish in La Maddalena:
Name of place: Mercato Civico di La Maddalena
What they sell: All types of seasonal fish caught in the La Maddalena archipelago.
Why you should go: To taste freshly caught seafood and to support local families who have been carrying on this tradition for generations, which requires a lot of sacrifice and is at risk of disappearing due to the advance of supermarket chains.
Curiosity: The surnames of the families who manage the fish stalls reveal a piece of La Maddalena's history - mostly surnames of Campanian origin, particularly from the island of Ponza (located in Lazio), such as Malleo, Vitiello, Aversano, and Barretta. In the late 1800s, several fishing families moved to La Maddalena, bringing their fishing expertise with them.
Special product: Anything that is fresh, but our special recommendation is the red mullet (which is difficult to find in restaurants) and the prawns and shrimps that the fisherman Alessandro Malleo catches and sells fresh after long trips at sea. If you see a sign that says "fresh prawns and shrimp tomorrow" outside the market, it means that Alessandro and his crew are out at sea hunting for these delicacies of the seabed.
Where to find it: You can find the map here.
Where to buy the best fresh fruit and vegetable in La Maddalena
Name of place: Frutta e Verdura
What they sell: fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables
Why go: in our opinion, they have one of the best selections of products, in addition to selling delicious dairy products imported from Campania such as buffalo mozzarella (the family that runs it is originally from Campania)
Special product: in the summer, seasonal fruits such as crushed white peaches - if you don't live in Italy, you have to try them, they are very fragrant and have a delicate and sweet taste
Location: Cala Chiesa area, on the east side of the island - you can find the map here.
Where to buy the best meat in La Maddalena
Name of place: Carniceria Sa Mesa
What they sell: Selected Sardinian meats
Why go: Great products and service from the Chelo family - very convenient to ask the butcher to prepare a selection of meats for a nice summer barbecue at one of the residence's barbecues
Special product: Porcetto, Sardinian-style sausage, and cordula, a typical Sardinian dish made on the grill with intertwined lamb intestines enclosing various other innards. Doesn't sound good? You can taste it perfectly cooked "Su Bandiru" before trying to make it at home
Where to find it: In the historic center - find the map here
Name of place: La Boutique della Carne
What they sell: Sardinian and national meats carefully treated
Why go: The meat counter has the order and presentation of a small craft boutique, and the products are very good
Special product: Aged meats to cook on the grill
Where to find it: Find the map here
Where to buy the best local Sardinian wines and spirits in La Maddalena
Name of place: Enoteca Gialisio
What they sell: Selection of Sardinian and national white, red, and sparkling wines
Why go: Carlo and his family are experts in the field and will advise you on the best products from Sardinian vineyards
Special product: Here we could open a very long chapter, but if we had to give you some tips to go for the best, here are some suggestions for savoring the best of Sardinian wine.
Red wines: Mamuthone, Sedilesu winery - Marchese di Villa Marina, Sell'e Mosca winery, Turriga, Argiolas wineries, Buio Buio - Mesa winery.
White wines: Is Argiolas, Argiolas winery - Ruinas, Depperu winery, Giunco, Mesa winery, Renosu, Dettori winery.
Where to find it: In the historic center, in Piazza Umberto Primo - find the map here.
Name of place: Enoteca del Porto
What they sell: Selection of Sardinian and national white, red, and sparkling wines
Why to go: You can find excellent Sardinian and national wines, as well as a selection of locally produced bulk wine (Gallura)
Special product: The owner is quite knowledgeable about the awards bestowed on Sardinian winemakers, so you won't have any trouble getting advice on the current "winery of the year." The following typical Sardinian liqueurs are a must-have in your vacation cellar:
Mirto: an infusion of myrtle berries with a sweet, pasty flavor, best served chilled
Fil’e Ferru: grappa made from grape stems, very alcoholic and perfect for digesting after a good roast
Where to find: In the historic center, in front of the port of Cala Gavetta - map here.